Your Pet Urinates on Baby's Diaper

Dogs are Apparently Marking Their Territory

Dogs are territorial animals, ie they ‘stake out a claim’ to a particular space, area or object, to other people and animals by marking it with a variety of methods and intensity. For example, a dog may bark to drive away what he perceives as intruders to his territory; or a cat may mark a valued object by rubbing it with her face.

Some dogs may go to the extreme of urinating to mark a particular area as their own. Such behavior should not be mistaken as house soiling; rather it is a territorial behavior. To solve the problem, we have to address the underlying reason for your dog’s need to mark his territory in this way.

Difference Between House-soiling And Urine-Marking

Your dog is urine-marking his territory when:

· The problem is mainly urination as dogs seldom mark with faeces

· The amount of urine is small and is found mainly on vertical surfaces although dogs do sometimes mark on horizontal surfaces.

· Leg-lifting and spraying are dominant versions of urine-marking.

· If your dog is not spayed or neutered as your dog is more likely to urine-mark compared to another dog that is spayed or neutered.

· Your dog urinates on new objects in the environment (eg a shopping bag, a visitor’s handbag), or objects that have unfamiliar smells, or objects that have another animal’s scent.

· Your dog has conflicts with other animals in your home. When there’s instability in the pack hierarchy, a dog may feel the need to establish his dominance by urine-marking his territory.

· Your dog has contact with other animals outside your home, eg if your dog sees another dog through a door or window, he may feel a need to mark his territory.

· Your dog marks frequently on neighborhood walks.

What You Can Do:

Spay or neuter your dog as soon as possible as it may stop your dog’s urine-marking. However, if he has been urine-marking for a long period of time, it may be difficult to break his pattern of behaviour

· Resolve conflicts between animals in your home.

· Restrict your dog’s access to doors and windows through which he can observe animals outside. If this is not possible, discourage the presence of such animals near your home.

· Clean soiled areas thoroughly. Don’t use strong smelling cleaners as these may cause your dog to ‘over-mark’ the spot.

· Make previously soiled areas inaccessible or unattractive.

· If making soiled areas inaccessible or unattractive isn’t possible, try to change the significance of those areas, eg feed, treat and play with your dog in the areas he is inclined to mark. A dog is less inclined to urine-mark areas that he feeds and plays at.

· Keep objects likely to cause marking out of reach, such as guest’s belongings, new purchases, etc.

· If your dog is marking in response to a new resident in your home (eg a new roommate, etc), have the new resident make friends with your dog by feeding, grooming and playing with your dog. Make sure good things happen to your dog when the new resident is around.

· Watch your dog at all times when he is indoors for signs of his urinating. When he begins to urinate, interrupt him with a loud noise and take him outside. Praise him and give him a treat if he urinates outside. If you are unable to watch your dog, put him in a crate where he has never marked.

Spay or neuter your dog as soon as possible as it may stop your dog’s urine-marking. However, if he has been urine-marking for a long period of time, it may be difficult to break his pattern of behaviour

· Resolve conflicts between animals in your home.

· Restrict your dog’s access to doors and windows through which he can observe animals outside. If this is not possible, discourage the presence of such animals near your home.

· Clean soiled areas thoroughly. Don’t use strong smelling cleaners as these may cause your dog to ‘over-mark’ the spot.

· Make previously soiled areas inaccessible or unattractive.

· If making soiled areas inaccessible or unattractive isn’t possible, try to change the significance of those areas, eg feed, treat and play with your dog in the areas he is inclined to mark. A dog is less inclined to urine-mark areas that he feeds and plays at.

· Keep objects likely to cause marking out of reach, such as guest’s belongings, new purchases, etc.

· If your dog is marking in response to a new resident in your home (eg a new roommate, etc), have the new resident make friends with your dog by feeding, grooming and playing with your dog. Make sure good things happen to your dog when the new resident is around.

· Watch your dog at all times when he is indoors for signs of his urinating. When he begins to urinate, interrupt him with a loud noise and take him outside. Praise him and give him a treat if he urinates outside. If you are unable to watch your dog, put him in a crate where he has never marked.

Dog Aren't People

Remember dogs don’t urinate or defecate out of spite or jealousy.

If he urinates on your baby’s diaper bag, it’s not because he is jealous of, or dislikes your baby. It’s the unfamiliar scents and sounds of a new baby in the house that is causing him to reaffirm his claim on his territory.

Dominance or Anxiety?

Urine-marking is usually associated with dominance behaviour. While this is often the case, some dogs may mark when they feel anxious or upset.

For example, a new baby in the house brings new sounds, smells and people, as well as changes in routine. Your dog probably isn’t getting as much attention as he was used to getting, which cause him to feel anxious. As a result, he may start to urine-mark.

If your dog is feeling anxious, you may want to consider talking to your veterinarian about medications to reduce his anxiety while you work on behaviour modification.

Dealing with Dog's Barking Problem

Dogs bark for many reasons. They bark to express themselves verbally. So it's unreasonable to expect your dog not to bark. What we want to control is excessive and uncontrollable barking from your dog.

One point to remember is that for some dog, excessive barking is a sign of aggressive behavior, which is a very serious and dangerous problem. The method mentioned here does NOT attempt to correct this problem. If there is any possibility that your dog is displaying aggressive behavior, seek help from a professional dog trainer early.

Generally, there are three types of barking:

1. Excited play alert barking
2. Learned barking
3. Boredom barking

Excited Play Alert Barking

This is caused by your dog seeing something but unable to get it, eg. his toys, other dogs, people, other small animals like cats, squirrels, etc.

When a dog displays this type of barking, he is playful and excited, and normally includes play bowing or bouncing around. When play bowing, he puts his head toward the ground and sticks his bottom in the air, his tail wagging, looking cute, wiggly and bouncy.

To deal with this type of barking:

1. Avoid getting your dog too excited. When playing with him, stop the game for a few minutes if he starts to get too excited
2. Resumes the game only after he calms down and stops barking
3. Re-direct his attention to his favorite toy if his barking is stimulated by other types of things like other small animals such as cats, squirrels, etc.
4. Praise him enthusiastically when he does not bark when he is around his distractions

By physically punishing your dog for play alert barking may initially suppress his barking but may run the risk of your dog developing negative associations to whatever he is barking at, increasing the likelihood of developing aggressive behavior.

Learned Barking

Examples of learned barking include barking at you or other people for attention, barking at door to be let in or out, barking at a toy so that you will throw it to him, barking at you or a cabinet for food.

Once your dog achieves his intention by barking, it is highly likely that he will repeat this behavior in the future.

To eliminate this problem, several things need to happen:

1. You must identify the cause of your dog's barking. Stop the cause immediately, eg. stop giving the food to him when he barks at you, etc.
2. Start an obedience program with your dog so that he learns to obey basic commands like "sit", "stay", "come", etc
3. Teach alternative behavior to your dog instead of barking for which he will be rewarded. For example, if he barks to go outside the house:
4. Say "No" to him
5. Gently tag at his leash to stop the barking
6. Tell him "Good Boy" when he stops barking
7. Have your dog "come" and lie down by your side
8. As soon as he does this, praise him and take him outside
9. After several months of training, your dog will learn to come and lie down by your side whenever he wants to go outside

A word of caution: the above training may initially result in increase barking from your dog since in the past he is able to achieve his intention by barking. Remember persistency and consistency will give the result you want.

Boredom Barking

Some dogs tend to bark and whine when they are bored and can go on for hours.

If your dog is showing such behavior, give him plenty of mental and physical stimulation.

Also, consider giving him another dog for company or engaging a dog walker for him.

Proper and regular exercise program and toys, like hunting for hidden treats are all effective remedies.

Recording and playing your voice and your family's member voices whenever you are not around.



And remember to praise your dog abundantly when he does the right thing!

How to Handle a Shy Dog

As loving dog owner, do you know that we can inadvertently train our dogs to be shy and fearful? Remember those moments we would instinctively reassure our dogs by talking soothingly, petting or even picking them up for a hug when they are shy or afraid of strangers, etc.

These actions flagrantly reward the dog for his fearful behavior.

Is Shyness a Problem or Not?

It is natural for some dogs to be shy of things that are new and unfamiliar. During development, a dog becomes socialized with familiar people, animals, objects and situations. But they will still tend to shy away from the unfamiliar. Shyness in itself is not a problem. It is only a problem if the dog's shyness inhibits your lifestyle or if the dog develops other problems related to shyness such as fear biting. Shy dogs often bolt when frightened, endangering themselves by running blindly into danger, such as traffic.

Unintentionally Training Your Dog or Puppy to be Shy

In a well meaning attempt to calm their dog's fears, many people end up actually reinforcing the dog's shy behavior.

In effect, the owner inadvertently trains the dog to be more fearful. Be careful not to reinforce your dog's fearfulness by offering reassurance. When our timid dog hides, barks defensively, whines, screams or snaps, our response is only natural. Our protective instincts cause us to reassure the dog by talking soothingly, petting or even picking up the dog for a hug. These actions flagrantly reward the dog for his fearful behavior.

It is best to just completely ignore your dog when he acts fearful. Let him learn by his own experience that there is nothing to be afraid of.

Save your praise and reassurance for times when your dog acts with confidence.

Shyness, Fear and Socialization

Many people try to rehabilitate their dog too quickly, forcing him to socialize with other dogs and people. This usually reinforces the dog's view that other dogs and people are frightening.

On the one hand, the dog needs to be socialized as quickly as possible, but on the other hand, he should not be forced into it. If you push your dog to do too much too soon, your dog will only become more fearful and may be forced into a situation where he feels he must defend himself.

Socializing a dog and helping him build his confidence is a time consuming task. Thrusting him into the arms of every visitor and dragging him out to socialize with many other dogs can be counter-productive.

Strangers should never be allowed to approach your dog to pet him. It should always be left to your dog to make the first contact. If your dog does not want to approach, that is OK. Just give him plenty of time to 'hide and peek' and eventually he will come out of hiding. It's up to you to provide ample opportunity for socialization, but it is up to the dog to proceed at his own pace. Don't verbally try to encourage him out of hiding. He will probably interpret your encouragement as praise for hiding. Don't try to force him to come out - this will only frighten him even more.

Fearful Snapping, Growling and Aggression

Shy or fearful dogs can react defensively when approached by unfamiliar people. They may try to keep strangers away by growling, snarling or snapping. These behaviors must not be ignored.

No dog should be allowed to get away with acting aggressively towards humans. The fact that your dog is shy is no excuse to condone growling or biting. You must instantly and effectively reprimand such behavior.

As soon as your dog stops acting aggressive, it is essential that you praise him. We do not want your dog to think that the presence of the stranger brings on the reprimand, but that his own obnoxious behavior causes you to get angry. If it is ever necessary for you to reprimand aggressive tendencies in your shy dog, you have probably been trying to push him along too quickly.

Avoid similar threatening situations until your dog has developed sufficient confidence to deal with them without resorting to aggression. Do not allow strangers to reprimand your fearful or shy dog.

And remember to praise your dog abundantly when he does the right thing!

We all like humorous dog pictures.

Don't we enjoy those funny shots of the dog? The pooch probably does not understand why we think those shots are making us laugh at him. Still, a good-natured dog will probably enjoy our evidence of joy.

Look at this video of funny dogs, please. Let me know your favorite parts of the movie.

"Bo" Obama, Portuguese Water Dog

He's a Portuguese Water Dog by breed. His name has been assigned as "Bo", named by the Obama daughters.

What about portuguese water dogs? Their breed title is often shortened to "Portie". It is actually a breed of hunting dogs, a type of water spaniel. Their thick hair is more like that of a poodle although it does not shed much so is somewhat hypoallergenic. This breed of dog is rare when compared to most other breeds.

Normally, their weight as full-grown dogs is no more than sixty pounds. The males often are as much as 23 inches in height. Their appearance is usually black with some white markings. Their brown eyes are alert. Their ears are drooping rather than alert-looking. Some of the dogs have wavy hair while others have tightly curled hair. Often groomers give these dogs a 'lion cut' and do not dock their tails.

These dogs generally tend to want human companionship so are good dogs for lonely people. They are generally friendly if well-trained. Many of these dogs are favorites for handicapped people.

Would you like a Portuguese Water Dog key chain?
Keychain: Portuguese Water Dog

?Doggie on the Couch?

This is what you want? Not me!!

As a dog owner, are you perplexed with the problem of your dog always jumping on furniture, taking your own place on the couch? Think of the possibility of fleas. Think about visitors who may want to sit down but Pooch has the only comfortable seat.

How To Deal With Your Dog Jumping On Furniture

This is a common problem and the method of dealing with this behaviour is very similar to that of jumping and stealing food from the counters.

Three approaches are used:

	Consistency Your dog should never be allowed to jump on the furniture
	Counter-conditioning Create a spot for your spot near your furniture (couch), which can be a blanket or doggie bed. Put his favourite toys or special treats at the spot For the first two months, whenever you sit at your furniture, leash him to the spot to avoid him from wondering off After two months, walk your dog (on leash) to the furniture. When he does not jump up to the furniture, praise and reward him. If he jumps up to the furniture, immediately say �No� and pull him away from the furniture Repeat this exercise several times a day.
	Correction By the fourth month, your dog should learn not to jump on the furniture If he still persists in this behaviour, it�s time to apply the booby trap to correct the behaviour:

i. Put a motion-sensitive sound alarm near the furniture so that alarm will trigger and sound when your dog jumps onto the furniture

ii. Make sure the alarm does not sound when he is near the furniture; only when he jumps onto the furniture

iii. Bring your dog near to the furniture and leave the room immediately

iv. If he jumps onto the furniture, alarm will sound and you should return to the room immediately and say �No� to him followed by pulling him on his leash away from the furniture

3. If your dog is not deterred by this booby trap, it�s time to put a Scat Mat on the furniture. This device will send out a very small electrical shock upon touching it. No dog will want to repeat this behaviour after experiencing such an unpleasant zap. Rest assured that the electrical shock experience is harmless to both human and animal.

And remember to praise your dog abundantly when he does the right thing!

"Sand Skin" Dog-Shar Pei

Sher Pei does not refer to the extra, loose skin on the puppies of this dog breed. It does not refer to the blue or black tongue, either. It refers to the texture of the coat of this old Chinese breed of dog.

As puppies, these dogs have lots of wrinkles, but as they mature, the wrinkles disappear as they "grow into their skin". The American Kennel Club did not recognize the breed until 1991.

The Shar Pei breed come in many colors but have the same characteristic blue-black tongue of the Chow Chow. Superabundant loose skin and wrinkles cover the neck, head, and body of puppies, but adult Shar Pei dog should grow into their skin so that these features are limited to the head, neck and withers. Improper breeding (detrimental to the health of the Shar Pei) produces adult dogs with wrinkles all over the body. Small ears, a muzzle shaped like that of a hippopotamus, and a high set tail also give the Shar Pei a unique look.

Shar Pei is a strong, agile and compact-bodied dog. This coarse coat is a heritage from the Shar pei's dog fighting ancestry that was purposely selected to offer greater resistance to its opponents during fights.

The Shar-Pei is dignified, calm, and confident, aloof with strangers, and a bit arrogant. He can also be a clown with his family.

These characteristics can make the Shar-Pei difficult to train unless he is well-socialized as a pup and taught early that the human word is law in the household. Once convinced of your superiority, the Shar-Pei will accept his place in the order and be a dependable, devoted companion and child's playmate.

Although he is considered a consummate watchdog, the Shar-Pei should never be aggressive to people or other dogs.

This is a people-oriented breed, so when looking for a pup, make sure the breeder gives her dogs plenty of human contact.

A book about Shar Pei: click below

The Complete Chinese Shar-Pei