Does thunder or fireworks scare your dog?

It's unsettling when your dog has a fear of thunder, fireworks or other loud and sudden noises. Dogs often express their fear in destructive behavior, barking, cowering, and throwing various fits.

There are two mistakes we often make which only make the situation worse:

1. Never reprimand or punish the dog for being afraid - He will only become more frightened.

2. Never verbally or physically try to reassure or comfort the dog when he is acting fearful - If you stroke, cradle or hug your dog while saying things like, 'Oh poor baby, it's OK, there's nothing to be afraid of,' the dog doesn't understand your words, but he does understand that he is receiving a gentle, soothing reward by your actions and tone of voice. The dog usually concludes it is doing the right thing by acting nervous because you are so approving of it.

Sometimes simply stopping the unintentional reward stops the fearful behavior. But until the dog is over his fears, it is best to confine him to a place where he can't hurt himself or completely destroy your property. A crate is ideal. Accustom the dog to his special place so that he feels comfortable and secure there. Don't wait until the storm has arrived to introduce your dog to his 'safe haven.'

Below are two methods to help your dog to overcome his fear of thunder, fireworks and other loud noises:

Method 1 - Distraction Training And Fear

Brush up on some obedience training and teach your dog a few tricks and games. It is difficult for a dog to be afraid when he is enjoying his favorite game of fetch. It is difficult to think about the thunder storm outside when he is concentrating on a quick series of Come, Sit, Heel, Sit, Shake Hands, Down, Roll Over, etc. The idea is to distract the dog from the noise. You can then shower the dog with lots of affection and attention, but for obeying a simple command of sit-shake hands, instead of for acting fearful.

The key is patience and practice. Do not wait until the night before the thunder storm or the third of July (fear of fireworks) to begin teaching your dog a few tricks. Be sure he knows them well beforehand. He will probably have trouble concentrating at first, so the better he knows the games and tricks, the easier it will be for him to perform them under pressure.

Method 2 - Desensitization And Fear

Another method of helping your dog overcome his fear is to slowly and gradually accustom him to the noises that frighten him. This can be done by making a recording of the sounds and playing it back to the dog while he is enjoying everyday life and activities. Many music stores have soundtracks of fireworks, thunder storms and rain that you can purchase. Start by playing it back at such a low volume that you can barely hear it, but the dog's keen hearing will. The dog should show no signs of fear at this volume. Gradually, over the course of weeks or months, increase the volume by tiny increments. The volume is increased so slowly that the dog hardly notices the change. Eventually he will be used to hearing the sounds at full force. If at any time, your dog shows signs of fear, decrease the volume again and proceed a little more slowly. This procedure will work more quickly if you combine it with distraction training.

Remember to praise your dog abundantly when he does the right thing!

The Use of Chew Toys in Dog Training

Many pet owners give chew-toys to their puppies, hoping that their puppies will not chew up their good shoes, table legs, couches, etc.

But unknown to them, chew-toys are the number one cause of destructive chewing.

Probably below are the common misconceptions pet owners have for giving chew-toys to their dogs:

1. It's instinctive for a puppy to chew.

Since he's going to chew on "something", it is better to give him a chew-toy and not our new shoes.

It is the instinctive nature for a puppy to chew. As humans, we will instinctively pick up a new object to feel it; a puppy will investigate a new object by first smelling it, followed by chewing on the object to see if it's good for eating.

So it is unrealistic to get rid of such instinctive behavior in our dogs. However, what we can do is to modify or control this behavior by enhancing and strengthening desirable behaviors and diminishing and suppressing undesirable ones.

2. Chew-toys relieve boredom.

Often a puppy chews things because he's bored so it's better for him to chew on a nylon bone (chew-toy) when he gets bored.

But so is chewing a table leg. Think of it this way. If your dog is going to chew to relieve boredom, guess what's going to happen when he gets bored, and his chew toy is in another room, and your shoe happens to be handy?

3. Puppies need chew-toys to develop their teeth and jaws.

This is totally a misconception! By feeding a good diet to your puppy, including raw bones, your puppy will NOT need to chew nylon or rawhide to develop his teeth and jaws.

The Remedy

It is important to remember that from the time you bring your puppy home, you have to teach him not to put his teeth on anything that isn't food.

If he picks up a stick in the back yard and chews or plays with it, say nothing. However, once he is inside the house, tell him firmly to "leave it" if the item he picks up is not food. Then make sure to help him to change his focus to something else.

By doing this, we are helping the dog to suppress his instinct to chew.

Yes, your puppy will still get bored sometimes. Since nobody ever taught him to chew to relieve boredom, he will not chew to relieve his boredom.

So is there any legitimate use for toys?

Toys such as canvas dummies, bird wings, Frisbees, and especially balls, are invaluable training aids. Very often toys like a ball can be used to motivate a dog in his training routines and for bond building between you and the dog during play sessions. We must always remember that the ball is not his. It's yours. So after playing or training, always remember to take the ball away from your dog. In doing so, you are getting your dog to relate to you and not the ball. That way, the ball and the play session become a strong motivator. By leaving the ball with him all the time, your puppy would have little interest in playing with it, and you would lose your best means of motivating him.

So, there are legitimate uses for toys but certainly not for chew-toys.

Remember to praise your dog abundantly when he does the right thing!

The dog speaks without words.

How to recognize and understand a dog's body language.


Signs of confidence: erect stance (standing tall), tail up, tail wagging in a slower sweep, ears pricked up or relaxed, direct look; relaxed, smaller pupils.

Signs of fear or concern: lowered stance, tail down or tucked under, tail wagging in a quick, frantic buzz; looking away or turning head away to look so that whites of eyes show ("whale eye"); dilated pupils. Dogs often bark out of fear, in an attempt to keep a distance between themselves and the Big Scary Thing, especially if they are cornered, fenced in, or on a leash.

Dogs that are aroused will often have their hair stand on end, usually the "hackles," the areas over the shoulders and just before the tail. This doesn't necessarily mean aggression, just that they are on high alert. Some dogs get "raised hackles" more easily than others; it's like some people who get red in the face very easily.

Dominant body postures: Standing over another dog, standing tall, hooking the dominant dog's chin or paw over another dog's shoulders, calmly accepting other dogs licking at their lips; staring. Some confident, dominant dogs will roll on their backs, exposing their bellies, in an attempt to reassure a more shy or submissive dog, or to get that other dog to play. They will be relaxed when they do that, and usually still look the other dog in the eye. Sometimes mounting ("humping") another dog is a sign of dominance, but not always; this often-misunderstood gesture can also be used by a lower-ranking dog to try to demonstrate his allegiance with a higher-ranking animal.

Submissive body postures: lowered head and body; allowing other dogs to stand over them or hook their heads over their shoulders; licking at other dogs' lips and mouth corners; looking away from the other dog; rolling on back and craning head away from other dog, while covering tucking their tail.

Play time:Dog play is often initiated by a play invitation like a play bow or pawing the air. Even when dogs play very roughly, they are usually fairly relaxed; their lips usually cover their teeth (not drawn back in a snarl). Dogs often bark in play; this will usually be higher-pitched than that same dog's fear-bark or warning-bark. Sometimes dogs will mount each other in play. They are often excited, but not in a sexual way, and it seems to be a way to bond. It is occasionally a show of dominance, but not always. Some dogs appear to mount high-ranking dogs in an attempt to find their place in a group that is much more complicated than a straight-line hierarchy.

Dogs can feel stressed in situations of frustration or fear (including during class or learning a new task). Look for clusters of stress signs: Shaking, whining, "submissive" urination, ears back, pupils dilated; rapid panting with corner of mouth pulled back; tail down; body lowered; sweating through paw pads, scratching at self; sudden interest in sniffing; yawning; blinking eyes; licking of lips or nose, or stretching tongue forward; looking away or turning head away; shaking body. Frustrated dogs often bark (this is especially seen in "fence fighting", when two dogs on opposite sides of a fence bark at each other; another easily-observed example is dogs in a shelter watching other dogs walking by; dogs that must pass each other on-leash often bark in frustration).

Also, dogs, as pack animals, have highly-developed ways of avoiding and diffusing conflict and aggression. Dogs therefore use "Calming Signals" to reduce stress for themselves and others they interact with (including humans). Calming signals include: Yawning, looking away, lip-licking, moving slowly, circling, sniffing the ground, becoming "distracted", sitting or lying down. Some of them are also the "appeasement display" behaviors that are developed to turn away aggression and threats of aggression - these are often confused with "the guilty look" that dogs may appear to be giving when scolded for doing something. Note that most of these are the opposite language from the directed attention that would be found in an aggressive interaction.

Signs of aggression include: Stiff legs and body; growls, lowered head; ears "pinned" back close to the head; eyes narrow and fixed intently; lips sometimes drawn back in a snarl; "hackles" (hair along back, especially over the shoulders and rump) up and erect; tail straight out, and intense stares (pupils may be fully dilated or shut!).

Dog to Dog Communication
THIS IS A WORTHWHILE BOOK FOR YOU.

Collie, the "Lassie" dog

One of the world's favorite dogs is the collie. Many people simply refer to it as the "Lassie" dog. Its duties before becoming the world's preferred pet were the herding of animals, mostly sheep.



This dog is of two types although both are considered to be 'real' collies. The dog in the Lassie TV series was a 'rough' collie. Those are the ones with the long hair and general look of Lassie. The other type are shorter-haired dogs but of the same general size and temperament.



This breed of dog is mild-tempered, kind and easy to train. They are good family dogs and are gentle to children. Puppies of this breed tend to nip at people's feet, which is a herding instinct which should be eliminated by proper training. Collies are usually not aggressive although they may be wary of strangers.



Collies are generally healthy animals with few inherent health problems. With sufficient exercise, they can be kept inside although they do quite well as outside dogs. Their life span is from fourteen to sixteen years.



They are easy to keep clean. Even the 'rough' collie (ones with long hair) tend to shed dirt with weekly brushing.



Originally, they come from Scotland. Now, however, they are well-known and much-loved worldwide. There have been successes in breeding with smaller breeds to create a more miniature size.

A Dog's Plea

Treat me kindly my beloved friend, for no heart in all the world is more grateful for kindness than the loving heart of me.

Do not break my spirit with a stick, for though I should lick your hand between blows, your patience and understanding will more quickly teach me the things you would have me learn.

Speak to me often, for your voice is the world's sweetest music, as you must know by the fierce wagging of my tail when your footstep falls upon my waiting ears.

Please take me inside when it is cold and wet for I am a domesticated animal, no longer accustomed to bitter elements. I ask no greater glory than the privilege of sitting at your feet beside the hearth.

Keep my pan filled with fresh water, for I cannot tell you when I suffer thirst. Feed me clean food that I may stay well, to romp and play and do your bidding, to walk by your side, and stand ready, willing and able to protect you with my life, should you be in danger.

And, my friend, when I am very old, and no longer enjoy good health, hearing and sight, do not make heroic efforts to keep me going. I am not having any fun. Please see that my trusting life is taken gently. I shall leave this earth knowing with the last breath I draw that my fate was always safest in your hands.

-Author Unknown

What about the dog who begs for table food?

Do you have the problem of your dog begging for food from the table during your mealtime? Mine definitely, too. No matter how resolved I am, her pleading eyes would ultimately melt my heart and cause me to give my chicken drumstick to her!

If you have this problem, let's take a look at what we can do to solve it:

Train yourself and your dog. If you have a problem with your dog begging from the table, it's likely that you may even find that your dog is actually stealing food from the counter. I'll share with you the tip on how to handle this problem later.
Do you have worries about heartworm in your dog? Click below:

Proheart (Monthly) Large Dogs 1.00

Could your dog be 'gay'?

Why does your dog mount other dogs?

Have you noticed that your dog is mounting other dogs even though they are of the same sex?

... If yours is a male dog, does it mean he is gay? Do you need to bring him to the vet for treatment?

To find out why your dog is doing this, click on the link below:

Is my dog gay?

A shortcut hint=Dogs are not gay!! There is no such thing among canines.

Norwich Terrier Breed Information

Since this is a type of terrier, they are good ratters. The breed was officially developed in England as a small ratting dog. Later they were also used to bolt foxes that had gone to ground during a fox hunt - (so the horses and hounds could resume the chase). This small terrier could get in and out of a small burrow quite easily. As they were bred to hunt in packs, the Norwich and Norfolk Terriers tend to be more sociable than many other terriers. Today the Norwich Terrier serves primarily as a companion dog, but can still take care of vermin.

Norwich and Norfolk Terriers started out as one breed, but were officially separated in England in 1964. The AKC followed suit in 1979. The Norwich has prick ears and the Norfolk - dropped ears. Also, Norfolk are angular and the Norwich are more round.

This is a lovable working dog. Exercise is essential to keep the animal healthy and in a good state of mind. Owners should keep in mind that it is necessary to keep the dog in his place. Do not allow him to get Small Dog Syndrome.

The normal life expectancy for Norwich is 15 to 18 years. They sometimes get eye problems which a vet should deal with.

Norwich Terriers are pleasant natured and good for apartment living. Their mid-length hair sheds little and is easy to care for.